Improving Mantrailing Technique — Between Trailing Training Sessions
- dogtrailing
- Oct 11
- 7 min read
Updated: 5 days ago

It's not unusual to be asked, "Is there anything I can do between trailing sessions with my family?".
Often, the question is asked by those new to the activity, and whilst there are potentially big pitfalls in trying to train yourself without the benefit of a trainer to guide you, there are also many things you can do between mantrailing sessions that may extend your enjoyment of trailing, and help you to hone your skills.
What is Mantrailing — Key Principles
Before trying to improve, it helps to keep the fundamentals in mind. Mantrailing involves:
A trail layer (person) who leaves a scent article and then walks/hides on a session, under the guidance of the trainer, who will tailor the trail to the handler team's ability.
The dog (with handler) team follows the scent trail to find the trail layer.
Much of it depends on reading the dog to know when they are on- or off-trail, good line-handling, gradually increasing difficulty, and dealing with environmental variables (such as contamination, obstacles, and weather).
Improving Technique Between Sessions
Here are actionable tips & exercises you can do outside of formal training to improve:
Focus Area | What You Can Do | Why It Helps |
Line/lead handling | Practise using your long line on either a static object or, even better, with a person simulating your dog! Attach the line to a point that represents the fixing point on your dog's harness. If this is a person, they can hold this behind their back. Practise keeping a good connection without tugging or sending sudden signals down the line to your 'dog'. This means practising shortening and lengthening your working line smoothly, but effectively. It's tricky to get right, so it's probably one of the most useful skills you can practise between sessions. If you don't already, then consider letting your dog walk in front of you if they are only used to walking to 'heel' or beside you. | Good line handling gives the dog freedom while still allowing you to stay connected. It prevents the handler from accidentally leading the dog away from the scent. Giving your dog permission to walk in front will enable them to be more confident about leading when trailing. |
Reinforcing foundations | Completing simpler trails occasionally and between sessions: short distance, few or no turns, easy (fresh) scent means you can be more effective on a training session. We should not work our dogs at full capacity all the time, so short, motivational trails are good for our dogs. Doing these between sessions means you can save your training sessions for your more challenging trails. | Keeps confidence high, prevents frustration, ensures that when trails get complex, the dog’s basics are solid. |
Using scent articles and discrimination | Any scent work games will help hone the skills of our trailing dogs, whether they're doing detection games or differentiation. These can be done in the comfort of our homes. Teach the dog to ignore “old scent” or contamination. Games like scent boxes (one has the correct scent, others are blank), alternating which article is used. | Helps dog focus on fresh, correct scent. Teaches discrimination, reduces errors/confusion. |
Reading your dog & handler awareness | Keep a log of behaviour: how the dog acts when on scent, loses scent, finds scent, or is confused. Watch videos of your sessions. Learn cues (head position, nose height, tail, ears) that your dog is “on”, “losing”, “searching”. Also reflect on your handling: did you push, wait, distract? You can add these details to your logbook in addition to what is noted on the day. On daily (non-trailing) walks, observe how your dog behaves — you may find this helps you read them better when trailing. | Helps you become more responsive, so you can support the dog more effectively. |
Managing motivation & reward | Find what your dog really values (wet food, special treats, toy). Use a high-value “finder’s reward”. Mix up rewards so they stay exciting. If you find things that work, reserve their use just for trailing! | If the dog loses motivation, performance and interest drop. Positive reinforcement is critical in mantrailing. |
Work on helpful working cues | The best trails may be the quiet trails, handler and dog working together in harmony. There are only two basic cues we use in a training session, 'sniff' (or 'scent' or similar and 'trail'. As trails advance, you may find a variety of other cues helpful — these should really only be ones you might use in daily management to ensure your dog's safety. Good examples might include a stop or wait cue. Why? Well, our dogs, when on a trail, might get a whiff of the scent that takes them toward a busy road. A Wait cue can be helpful to allow them to know the game isn't over, but they need to wait for your next cue before stepping onto the road. You might use a 'crossing' cue to direct them across the road. Some find benefit in a 'work on' cue. If you need to take a moment out to avoid a challenge due to reactivity or safety, for example, some like to 'work on'. Any such cues will need to be trained, and this should happen between trailing sessions. | Helpful cues can be useful when you have to manage situations for your dog's safety. They are likely to be the ones that are helpful in everyday life, so train them between sessions so you have the appropriate toolset available when trailing. |
Practise Ideas You Can Do Solo / With Just a Friend
Here are some practical exercises you can set up in your neighbourhood, parks, or even at home:
Runaways
Let a trail-layer walk a short distance, call the dog, and reward at the end. Then gradually increase the distance, add corners. (Runner may hide behind a tree or fence, etc.). This is a classic starter from the American Bloodhound Club.
Indoor scent searches
Hide scent articles or small items around a room or house. Let the dog find them, and reward. Useful on rainy days or when you can’t get outside. Helps generalise finding scent in cluttered or familiar spaces.
“Blueline” or known trails
If you or a friend knows the path of a trail (so you know where it goes), you can watch how your dog behaves at tricky points, how you might support them (or not). Use this for reflection.
Varying trail age
Lay a trail and let it age (i.e. wait some time) before letting the dog follow. Start with short time gaps so scent doesn’t degrade totally. This helps the dog learn to follow less fresh scent. Increase gradually.
Different surfaces & transitions
From grass → pavement → gravel → woodland, etc. Let the trail cross them. The scent will change how it behaves. Practise supporting the dog when the trail is lost temporarily (e.g. on concrete works less well). Encourage them to “air-scent” if needed.
Distraction overlay
Once the dog is quite confident, have a mild distraction: e.g. another person nearby (but not visible to the dog) or smells (food, other pets). Or use human traffic areas. The aim is not to overwhelm, but to practise focus.
Reward timing practice
When the dog finds the trail-layer, make finding the reward a moment to celebrate. But also experiment with how soon you deliver the reward, whether you let the dog lead you there, etc. Timing of reward matters: the faster and more precisely you reward after detection, the clearer.
Handler reflection/videoing
Film or have someone film your trailing. Watch how you handle, where the dog loses or picks up scent, how you move, how clean your line handling is, slack vs tension, and how you cue. Reflect on what worked vs what didn’t.
Common Pitfalls & How to Avoid Them
Pitfall | How to Recognise | What You Can Do |
---|---|---|
Over-difficulty too soon | The dog hesitates, shows confusion, has frequent loss of trail, and frustrated body language | Scale back: shorter trail, fresher scent, fewer turns/distractions. Return to simpler foundations. |
Poor line management | Tangles, dog being pulled, handler pulling dog off trail due to line tension | Use proper gear (good long line, harness), practise line handling as above. Let the dog guide more. |
The dog loses scent, and the handler pushes in the wrong direction. | The dog stops, sniffs widely or lifts its head, the handler starts walking quickly to help | Pause, observe dog behaviour. Let them search back/downwind. Don’t force; trust the dog’s nose. The handler may need to backtrack or revisit the last known scent. |
Rewards are not motivating or consistent | The dog seems bored, slow, and less interested, and stops tracking | Reassess reward value. Mix up rewards. Make sure rewards are delivered immediately and clearly. |
Not varying environment/scent types | A dog becomes good only in one type of location; performance drops in new areas | Intentionally seek new places, new surfaces, weather conditions, and ambient smells. |
Supporting the Dog Before, During & After
It’s not just about the trail itself: how you prepare and follow up matters.
Before: Warm up nicely (a short walk to stretch, get nose working). Ensure the dog is hydrated, not overly excited or tired. Give clear cues. Choose an area suited to your current level.
During: Be patient. Observe. Let the dog work. Don’t overload with cues. Use your voice, body position, and line tension (as a communication tool). If the dog loses the trail, try to help by going back to the last known scent, but avoid overcorrecting so that the dog doesn’t become reliant on the handler. Reward well for success!
After: Give time to relax. Positive reinforcement. Reflect: What worked? What didn’t? What environmental factors may have made it harder or easier (weather, ground moisture, contamination)? Use this to plan your next practice.

Why All This Matters
Improving your trailing technique outside formal sessions helps in multiple ways:
Builds your dog’s confidence and reduces anxiety on harder trails.
Enhances team coordination: you learn to read your dog, handle the line, and support their trailing.
Makes you more adaptable: real trails vary enormously. If your dog has seen many kinds, you’re better prepared.
Keeps motivation high for both you and the dog.
Mostly, though, have fun with your dog! Trailing is about providing your dog with confidence to lead, and building trust and a bond with your team partner. Nurture these and enjoy the time with your teammate.
Happy trailing!
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